Visiting the Thang Long Tu Tran Temples at the Start of Spring: The Order of the Four Temples, What to Pray at Each One, and the Mistakes First-Timers Often Make

What is Thang Long Tu Tran and why do Hanoians visit the four temples at the start of spring?

Thang Long Tu Tran is the four temples that guarded the four directions, East, West, South, and North, of the old Thang Long capital: Bach Ma Temple, Voi Phuc Temple, Kim Lien Temple, and Quan Thanh Temple. Hanoians and visitors often visit all four during early spring to pray for peace and family health, and to see the historical relics tied to the old capital.

According to VietnamPlus, Thang Long Tu Tran is the set of four typical relics guarding the four directions of the old Thang Long capital. Bach Ma Temple worships Long Do, the guardian deity of the capital, and guards the East, now at 76 Hang Buom Street, Hoan Kiem District. Voi Phuc Temple is now in Ngoc Khanh Ward, Ba Dinh District, guarding the West. Kim Lien Temple was built by King Ly Thai To after he established the capital in 1010, guarding the South. Quan Thanh Temple, whose Sino-Vietnamese name is Tran Quan Vu, worships Huyen Thien Tran Vu and guards the North.

Origin of the term and what researchers note

One point needs to be clear to avoid misunderstanding: the term "Thang Long Tu Tran" appeared quite late, in 1956, in the book Thang Long co tich khao tinh hoi do by Dang Xuan Khanh, according to Mega Story of VietnamPlus. Before that, the concept "Tu tran tu" had appeared in the Nguyen-era text Ha thanh linh tich co luc.

According to research by Dr. Nguyen Doan Minh of the Institute for Imperial City Studies, "Thang Long Tu Tran" is a constructed tradition, systematized by Nguyen-era Confucian scholars in a special historical context. That does not reduce the value of the four temples; rather it shows that earlier intellectuals wanted to remember a Thang Long capital that had four guardian deities and, in memory, never lost the country.

Structurally, researchers say this sacred space may have formed much earlier. The Hong Duc map ordered by King Le Thanh Tong, completed in 1490, located three temples, Bach Ma, Linh Lang (Voi Phuc), and Quan Tran Vu, in the East, West, and North of Thang Long citadel. Kim Lien (Cao Son) Temple does not appear on that map, but by 1772 at the latest it was present at its current location.

Why four, and is four an unlucky number?

Many people avoid the number 4 because it reads as "tu", close in sound to "tu" meaning death. But in folk belief cited on Mega Story, the number 4 also stands for solidity: a year has four seasons, land has four directions, four sides make a square that represents stability and peace. Four is also two pairs, suggesting lasting harmony and fulfillment.

Assoc. Prof. Dr. Nguyen Ngoc Oanh of the Academy of Journalism and Communication says the number 4 symbolizes the best things, used by ancestors as a balance and fullness of heaven and earth. Dr. Nguyen Doan Minh links the number 4 to Tu bat tu, Tu phu, Tu Phap, and An Nam tu dai khi. Tu Tran protecting Thang Long fits that same line of meaning: four deities guarding four directions, warding off natural disasters and enemies, keeping the capital and its people safe.

Who is worshipped at each of the four temples, where are they, and what should you pray at each?

This is the most practical part. Each temple worships a different deity, so the prayer and the intention should differ rather than reciting the same text at all four.

According to records in Thang Long co tich khao tinh hoi do cited by Mega Story, the four temples correspond to four deities: East tran Hang Buom Bach Ma dai vuong tu, West tran Thu Le Linh Lang dai vuong tu, South tran Kim Lien Cao Son dai vuong tu, North tran Tay Ho Tran Vu dai de tu.

Bach Ma Temple, guarding the East

Bach Ma Temple is at 76 Hang Buom Street, Hang Buom Ward, Hoan Kiem District. It worships Long Do, the guardian deity of the Thang Long capital, regarded as the tutelary deity of Hanoi. Legend says the sacred point of Long Do land was Nung Mountain, where Ly Nguyen Gia built a temple. Documents kept at the temple say it was built in 866 when Cao Bien built Dai La citadel, then rebuilt in 1010 when Ly Cong Uan moved the capital to Thang Long.

When praying at Bach Ma Temple, visitors usually ask for peace, health, and luck for the family, as VietnamPlus notes about people's wishes here at the start of the year. Since this temple is tied to the capital's guardian deity, prayers can extend to smooth business and trade, fitting the crowded old quarter around it.

Voi Phuc Temple, guarding the West

Voi Phuc Temple is now in Ngoc Khanh Ward, Ba Dinh District. The name Voi Phuc comes from the two kneeling elephants built in front of the temple, according to VietnamPlus. It worships Linh Lang dai vuong, the deity guarding the West of the capital.

People visiting Voi Phuc at the start of the year often pray for health, peace, and happiness for the family. Prayers here should focus on close wishes: family members in good health, stable work, and a harmonious household.

Kim Lien Temple, guarding the South

Kim Lien Temple was built by King Ly Thai To right after he established the Thang Long capital in 1010, to protect the new capital on the South side, according to VietnamPlus. It worships Cao Son dai vuong.

Visitors to Kim Lien during Tet often pray for a prosperous new year and favorable outcomes. It is also a place many families choose to pray for their children's studies, exams, and careers, since the temple is tied to King Ly Thai To, founder of the Ly dynasty and the Thang Long capital.

Quan Thanh Temple, guarding the North

Quan Thanh Temple guarded the North of the old Thang Long capital, with the Sino-Vietnamese name Tran Quan Vu, worshipping Huyen Thien Tran Vu. It sits by West Lake and draws many people at the start of spring, according to VietnamPlus.

Because it worships the deity guarding the North, Quan Thanh Temple also carries the meaning of protecting the home and warding off evil, keeping the house peaceful. Prayers here can ask for family peace, a warm home, smooth work, and safe travel.

What order should you follow and how should you prepare offerings?

There is no single mandatory order. Most visitors choose one of two ways: go in the East, West, South, North circle to cover all four directions, or go in the direction convenient from home, as long as all four temples are visited. The important thing is to stay respectful and avoid noise and pushing.

Preparing offerings

Offerings for the Tu Tran spring visit do not need elaborate trays. Common practice usually includes:

• Incense sufficient for all four temples, ideally in a separate box with a lighter or safety matches.
• Fresh flowers, often chrysanthemums, gladioli, or roses; avoid strongly scented flowers that are unpleasant in enclosed spaces.
• Vegetarian offerings: oan, cakes, candy, seasonal fruit, possibly a small five-fruit tray.
• Clean water or a small bottle of water to offer.
• Offering money (merit money) placed in envelopes or kept separately, not scattered as loose change.
• Tissues and a small trash bag to carry your own trash away and keep the temple clean.

If a family can, they may prepare a savory tray such as boiled chicken and sticky rice, but many choose vegetarian offerings for simplicity and to suit the early-year atmosphere. This is a reference custom; each family can adapt to its own conditions.

How to arrange offerings and offer incense

When entering a temple, observe the temple's map and instructions, place offerings at the merit table or designated spot, and do not put offerings on the main altar if the temple does not allow it. Light incense in odd numbers, usually one or three sticks per altar, bow three times, then place the incense in the bowl. Do not place incense in the bowl with wet hands or while still holding other items.

Safety note: only light incense and candles where there is a fireproof tray and no flammable materials nearby. Do not let small children hold incense, candles, or lighters. When burning votive paper, burn it only in the temple's designated furnace, not in the yard, at tree roots, or indoors. Never burn votive paper when it is very windy, and do not let ash fly to other areas. Put out the fire completely before leaving.

Key points of the prayer at each temple

You do not need to memorize a long prayer text. The folk structure usually includes: I respectfully bow to the deities and tutelary gods, then state your name, age, and address, then explain why you have come and your prayer, and finally bow in thanks. Below are the key points by temple:

• Bach Ma Temple: bow to Long Do, pray for peace, health, and luck for the family, and smooth work.
• Voi Phuc Temple: bow to Linh Lang dai vuong, pray for health, peace, and family happiness.
• Kim Lien Temple: bow to Cao Son dai vuong, pray for prosperity, favorable outcomes, studies, and career.
• Quan Thanh Temple: bow to Huyen Thien Tran Vu, pray for protection of the home, peace, a warm house, and safe travel.

Prayers should be short and sincere, without fancy wording. What to avoid is praying too long, asking for unrealistic things, or praying on behalf of others without their consent.

Mistakes first-time visitors often make

First-time Tu Tran visitors often make unintentional mistakes that can cause offense or affect others' experience. Knowing them in advance makes the trip smoother.

• Pushing and shoving to reach the altar first, especially at Quan Thanh and Bach Ma on the first and second days of Tet.
• Placing offerings or merit money outside designated spots, harming the look of the temple and troubling its management.
• Burning too much incense, creating thick smoke that makes others uncomfortable and stains ancient relics.
• Taking photos or videos in prohibited areas, or photographing others without permission.
• Eating, talking loudly in the temple, or letting children run and play with fire.
• Burning votive paper outside the designated furnace, risking fire.
• Visiting without learning which deity each temple worships, leading to praying to the wrong deity or asking for unsuitable things.

Another rarely mentioned mistake is rushing the visit. The four temples are in four different areas of Hanoi, and trying to finish them all in one morning easily leads to fatigue, irritability, and a loss of reverence. If time allows, split the trip into two sessions or two days, or visit two nearby temples first and the other two later.

Are there any taboos when visiting the four temples?

Many people ask whether there are taboos for the Tu Tran spring visit. In common folk custom, there is no strict mandatory taboo for visiting these four temples. What to keep is modest, neat clothing, walking and speaking quietly, and not bringing strongly scented food into the temple.

As for timing, many choose early morning, avoiding the midday and evening peaks when temples are crowded. If going on the first day of Tet, go earlier than planned because the crowds at Quan Thanh and Bach Ma are very large and pushing can happen.

Note that this is a reference custom, not a hard rule. Each region and family may do differently. Some visit only one temple near home, some visit all four, some combine worship with spring outings. All are acceptable, as long as there is respect for the relics and the community.

Conclusion: the Tu Tran spring visit is worth doing, but do it the right way

The Thang Long Tu Tran spring visit is a beautiful spiritual cultural feature of Vietnamese people, tied to the history of the Thang Long capital and four deities guarding four directions. For a complete trip, visitors should know which deity each temple worships, prepare light offerings, pray to the right deity at each temple, and especially pay attention to safety when burning incense, candles, and votive paper. This is a reference custom with no single correct way, so each person can adapt to their conditions and family tradition.