TL;DR: The ancestor worship ceremony of the Lô Lô people in Hà Giang is a national intangible cultural heritage, highlighted by the Ma Co dance. Ma Co, incarnations of forest people in grass attire, are seen as guides for ancestors to attend the ceremony and witness the sincerity of their descendants.
What is the Lô Lô ancestor worship ceremony and Ma Co dance?
In the diverse cultural landscape of Vietnam's ethnic minority communities, the Lô Lô people on the rocky plateau of Hà Giang stand out with their traditional rituals steeped in spirituality. Among these, the Ancestor Worship Ceremony is a significant religious practice, expressing the principle of 'remembering the source when drinking water' and embodying profound artistic and philosophical values. The most unique highlight of this ritual is the appearance of the 'Ma Co' (Ghà Lu Ngang), mysterious figures in grass costumes, considered a bridge between the mortal world and the spiritual realm.
Summary table of the main rituals in the ancestor worship ceremony of the Lô Lô people, along with their timing and typical activities.
| Ritual | Timing | Main activities |
|---|---|---|
| Ancestor sacrifice ritual | Beginning of the ceremony | The shaman performs worship, beats the bronze drum, offers chickens, pigs, and cows |
| Ancestor remembrance ritual | After the sacrifice ritual | The community and the Ma co dance troupe dance in ritual to the rhythm of the bronze drum |
| Ancestor send-off ritual | When night falls | The household head lights a fire, the shaman burns paper money, ending at dawn |
What is the origin and spiritual meaning of Ma Co?
What is the Lô Lô belief about the ancestral world?
The Lô Lô believe that ancestors are divided into two main systems. The near ancestors (duỳ khế) are the ancestors from 3 to 4 generations, and the far ancestors (pờ xi) are those from the 5th or 6th generation and above. When a person passes away for 3 to 4 years, the eldest son establishes an ancestral altar and performs a ritual to invite the soul to the altar, marking the deceased's transition from the present world to the ancestral world. From this, the belief in an eternal realm where ancestors reside is formed, and descendants believe that ancestors always watch over and bless the family and lineage.
The Birth of the Ma Co Figure
According to Lô Lô legend, Ma Co represents the ancient origins of the ancestors, who lived in the forests and used grass as clothing. The image of forest people in grass costumes became a symbol of primitiveness, purity, and connection to nature. In the ritual, the Lô Lô believe that for ancestors to find their way back to attend the ceremony, Ma Co must serve as guides. Ma Co acts as a bridge, an invisible thread connecting descendants on earth with ancestors in the afterlife, guiding the souls of the deceased to be received by their ancestors and preventing them from getting lost.
What do the Lô Lô prepare for the ancestor worship ceremony?
Meticulous Preparation by the Lineage
The Ancestor Worship Ceremony is usually held on the 14th day of the 7th lunar month each year at the house of the lineage head (thầu chư). This is a major event for the lineage, prepared meticulously a year in advance. The lineage head leads the main offerings, while families in the lineage contribute according to their means. When the lineage plans to hold the ceremony, the head must personally invite the shaman and send people to borrow the sacred bronze drums from the community. The bronze drums consist of a larger female drum (giảnh đú) and a smaller male drum (giảnh kê), only played during major festivals of the community or clan.
Offerings and the Transformation of Ma Co
Mandatory offerings for the ancestors include: one buffalo, one pig, one chicken, sticky rice, wine, gold paper money (phíu khí), oil lamps, and a pair of bronze drums. Alongside this, the most important task is finding people to transform into Ma Co. Those chosen will go together to the mountain 'Chun ta' (the 'Backbone' mountain) to find the grass 'Su choeo'. This is a long, soft, and durable grass used to braid around the body into a full-body costume. Once dressed, Ma Co step into their roles under strict regulations.
How is the Lô Lô ancestor worship ceremony performed?
What is the ancestral sacrifice ceremony?
The ritual begins with the Ancestral Sacrifice. The main shaman (Vàng Dích Quỷ) performs the worship procedures in front of the lineage and community, aiming to report and invite the ancestors to attend the ceremony and receive the offerings from their descendants. Then, the bronze drum beating is conducted. The drummer receives two cups of wine, drinks them, and then strikes the drums, while the women in the house, dressed in traditional attire, dance and perform rituals to the drumbeat alongside the Ma Co troupe.
When the shaman finishes the invitation and report to the ancestors, the chicken is taken to be cooked as an offering. After the chicken is boiled, its wings are offered on the altar. Next, a live pig is brought to the center of the yard for sacrifice, and its blood is spilled right there. The shaman reports to the ancestors that the lineage descendants offer the pig, symbolizing the livestock in the eternal realm. While the shaman recites the incantation, all children in the lineage must kneel, cross their hands over their chests, and bow their heads to listen. Finally, a buffalo is slaughtered in the yard, with the wish to offer food to the ancestors on their journey to the sky.
The Ancestral Remembrance Ceremony and the Role of Ma Co
The Ancestral Remembrance Ceremony is performed by the Lô Lô community in the village along with the ritual dance troupe. During this time, the Ma Co play a central role, continuously 'dancing the ritual' to the rhythm of the bronze drums. Their dance is not just an art form but carries sacred meaning, seen as an act of guiding and connecting with the spiritual world. The Lô Lô believe that thanks to spiritual faith and enthusiasm, the dance troupe can dance continuously until the afternoon, still remaining agile and rhythmic, without feeling tired. The Ma Co dance ends when the Ancestral Remembrance Ceremony concludes, usually at dusk.
What are the special taboos for Ma Co?
Throughout the ritual, those disguised as Ma Co must adhere to very strict rules. They are not allowed to eat or speak. When moving, they must not stumble or fall, and if their true identity is recognized by others, the lineage will face bad luck for the entire year. These taboos create a sacred and mysterious atmosphere around the Ma Co figures, while demonstrating absolute reverence for the ritual and the spiritual world.
The Ancestor Farewell Ceremony
As night falls, the Ancestor Farewell Ceremony begins with the sound of bronze drums. In the middle of the yard, the host lights a large bonfire. The shaman addresses the ancestors, informing them that the descendants offer offerings, money, and gold to send them back to the heavens, asking them to accept the gifts and bless the descendants on earth. Then, the shaman burns the gold paper money, and the ceremony concludes at dawn the next day. The sacrificial offerings are then cooked into dishes and distributed equally to thank those who helped the lineage with the ceremony, such as the shaman, the Ma Co performers, the cooks, the bronze drummers, and to invite everyone to eat, drink, and celebrate with the family.
What is the cultural value of the Ma Co dance and how is it preserved?
The Ancestor Worship Ceremony of the Lô Lô people in Lũng Cú commune, Đồng Văn district, Hà Giang province was included in the National List of Intangible Cultural Heritage by the Minister of Culture, Sports and Tourism in 2012. This ritual is not merely a religious custom but also a community cultural activity with deep educational value. It guides descendants back to their roots, teaches the principle of 'remembering the source when drinking water', and fosters cohesion within families, lineages, and villages.
The Ma Co dance is a unique artistic feature that distinguishes this ritual from ancestor worship ceremonies of other ethnic groups. The image of Ma Co in grass costumes carries a primitive, wild beauty, evoking the ancient origins of the people. Today, the ritual is still maintained and practiced regularly by the Lô Lô according to tradition. The Hà Giang Provincial Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism has also coordinated with relevant departments and local authorities to document this ritual in order to preserve and promote the heritage's value for future generations.
