Image: Unknown author, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 3.0)
TL;DR: The Dinh Cậu Phú Quốc Festival, also called the Dinh Cậu offering ceremony or Nghinh Cậu ceremony, is a traditional festival of Phú Quốc islanders held on the 15th and 16th of the 10th lunar month at Dinh Cậu, a temple on the rocky outcrop at the mouth of the Dương Đông river in Phú Quốc Special Zone, An Giang province (formerly Kiên Giang). It honours Chúa Ngọc Nương Nương and her two sons Cậu Tài and Cậu Quý, with three main rituals: Nghinh Cậu, Yết Cậu and Chinh Te, praying for safe voyages and good catches.
What is the Dinh Cậu Phú Quốc Festival and when does it take place?
The Dinh Cậu Phú Quốc Festival, also called the Dinh Cậu offering ceremony or Nghinh Cậu ceremony, is a traditional festival of the people of Phú Quốc island, held on the 15th and 16th of the 10th lunar month each year at Dinh Cậu, a shrine on the rocky outcrop at the mouth of the Dương Đông river. It is an occasion for locals to remember the deities worshipped at the shrine and to express wishes for safe voyages and good catches.
Dinh Cậu sits on a rocky outcrop jutting into the water, in Phú Quốc Special Zone, An Giang province (formerly Kiên Giang province). Its position facing the western sea makes it both an important spiritual site for islanders and a well known spot for watching the sunset.
Why is it called Dinh Cậu and not Dinh Bà?
The name Dinh Cậu has several explanations and sources do not fully agree. One explanation holds that "Ba" is the supreme Mother goddess regarded with awe, while "Cau" is a more direct protector who "herds fish" and rescues people in storms. The name Dinh Cậu also distinguishes it from the neighbouring Dinh Bà Thủy Long Thánh Mẫu.
According to cultural researcher Nguyễn Thanh Lợi, fishing was once called the "Ba - Cau trade" by southerners. Fishermen often made offerings to Bà Cậu to pray for safety at sea and abundant catches. In the Đại Nam quoc am tu vi by Huỳnh Tịnh Của, published in 1895 - 1896, "cau Tray, cau Quy" are mentioned as children of Bà Chúa Ngọc, showing that Ba and Cau already appeared together in southern Vietnamese vocabulary from the late 19th century.
Which deities are worshipped at Dinh Cậu?
Dinh Cậu worships Chúa Ngọc Nương Nương together with two deities, Cậu Tài and Cậu Quý. Chúa Ngọc Nương Nương is regarded as a deity "localised" from the central Vietnamese goddess Thien Y A Na, who protects coastal fishermen. She has two sons, Cậu Tài and Cậu Quý, worshipped alongside her at Dinh Cậu under the title "Nhi hien vuong Thai tu".
By hierarchical order, Chúa Ngọc Nương Nương is both Holy Mother and mother, so she must occupy the most honoured position, at the centre of the main hall. Cậu Tài and Cậu Quý are worshipped only on either side. The main hall also contains altars to Long Vương, Tả Ban, Hữu Ban, Son than, Thần Tài and Tho dia.
Some sources record a different order for the two sides: one document places Cậu Quý on the right and Cậu Tài on the left, while other descriptions simply say the two Cau are worshipped on either side without specifying positions. Readers should treat this as a detail on which sources do not agree.
Why is Chúa Ngọc Nương Nương worshipped on Phú Quốc island?
Dinh Cậu belongs to the system of Mother goddess and female deity worship of the coastal people of Phú Quốc, brought in by central Vietnamese fishermen during the southward expansion around the late 17th century. Like other coastal communities, Phú Quốc people deeply believe in Ba - Cau, and all good fortune at sea is attributed to their protection.
History of Dinh Cậu according to the sources
Regarding the origin of Dinh Cậu, sources do not fully agree on the timeframe and early developments.
- According to some documents, around the late 1870s, French naval hydrographic engineer J. Renaud saw at the mouth of the Dương Đông river a large black rock with a shrine on it where sailors and fishermen came to make offerings.
- Other sources hold that Dinh Cậu began as a small shrine appearing in the late 17th century, linked to central Vietnamese fishermen settling on Phú Quốc.
- Phú Quốc folk memory also preserves various legends about the shrine's origin, such as fishermen in distress being carried by waves onto the rocky outcrop and building a shrine in gratitude, or the story of Cau having to sit on the back of the Sấu tinh (crocodile spirit) to guard it.
What the sources share is that Dinh Cậu began as a small, simple shrine and was later restored several times. In 1937 it was built more solidly. Its present appearance largely dates from the 1997 restoration. In 2012, Dinh Cậu was ranked as a provincial level relic, of the scenic landscape category.
How are the legends about Dinh Cậu told?
In Phú Quốc folk memory, Dinh Cậu is linked to many stories passed down through generations. One popular legend tells that around the 17th century, when the first settlers from central Vietnam came to live on the island, the sea was still a great challenge. In a great storm, a group of fishermen in distress at sea, seemingly without hope, were carried by waves onto a rocky outcrop jutting out at the river mouth and luckily returned safely. Believing in the protection of the deities, the people built a shrine on the rocky outcrop to worship and give thanks.
Another legend tells that before it was named Phú Quốc, this land was called Xích Thổ, under the rule of the female Thủy Long Thần, commonly called Bà Chúa Đảo. She had a deeply beloved son, whom the locals called Cau, with an unpredictable temper. Because he disobeyed his mother by freeing the imprisoned Sấu tinh, Cau had to sit forever on the back of the Sấu tinh to guard it, even after it turned to stone. Moved by his exposure to rain and sun, the villagers built a shrine midway up the rocky mountain and called it Dinh Cậu.
There is also a telling that Dinh Cậu was formerly named Long Vương Thần Miếu, with the main hall called Thạch Sơn Điện. On the shrine's door today are three characters "Thạch Sơn Điện".
What is special about Dinh Cậu's architecture?
Dinh Cậu has the distinctive look of southern Vietnamese temple and shrine architecture. From the mainland, visitors follow a long concrete road before climbing 29 stone steps leading up to the shrine on the rocky promontory jutting into the Dương Đông river mouth. On either side of the stone steps are railings with traditional decorative motifs.
The shrine has a Dinh (丁) shaped layout, tiled roof, and a ridge decorated with a double dragon. The red tiled roof stands out against the sky, with curved roof sections and decorative details of dragons and phoenixes. The entrance gate bears the words "Dinh Cậu", leading into a solemnly arranged worship space. Parallel sentences lacquered in red and gilded, along with carved details on columns, roof and corner beams, give the shrine an ancient look.
In front of the shrine is a screen and a model fishing boat facing the sea. The shrine is built on a rock shaped like a turtle's head, so a parallel sentence inside reads:
"Toa tai thach dau quy danh hien Chan phong binh lang bao luong dan".
Meaning the shrine sits on a rock shaped like a turtle's head that manifests its power, shielding against wind and waves to protect the people. Before the main hall are two more parallel sentences:
"Van co anh linh thong thien dia Thien thu hien hach chieu can khon".
Where is Dinh Cậu located relative to Dương Đông?
Dinh Cậu is a few hundred metres from Dương Đông town, to the west, on the rocky outcrop where the Dương Đông river mouth opens to the western sea. Its position facing the western sea gives it a wide view towards the horizon. The best time to watch the sunset at Dinh Cậu is around 17:00 to 18:00 daily, depending on the season.
What rituals does the Dinh Cậu Festival include?
The Dinh Cậu Festival includes a ceremonial part and a festive part. In the ceremonial part, the three main rituals are Nghinh Cậu, Yết Cậu and Chinh Te.
| Ritual | Timing | Main content |
|---|---|---|
| Nghinh Cậu | 15th of the 10th lunar month | Palanquin procession of the two Cau to Dinh Cậu, passing through the main streets of the Dương Đông area; locals and visitors can join the procession |
| Yết Cậu | After Nghinh Cậu | Dignitaries, elders and locals offer incense, praying for favourable voyages and the safe return of those at sea |
| Chinh Te | Night of the 15th of the 10th lunar month | The most important ritual; offerings include pig, chicken, fruit, incense and lamps carefully prepared, in a solemn atmosphere |
After the ceremonies come folk games with a coastal flavour such as boat racing, stilt walking, pot smashing and sack racing. In some years, depending on the scale, the festival also features lion dance and folk art performances. According to some records, the Dinh Cậu Festival also includes Bóng Rỗi singing and dancing.
Is the Dinh Cậu Festival a fishermen's prayer ceremony?
According to some documents, the Dinh Cậu Festival has rituals quite similar to the Ky yen ceremony, but is essentially a Cau ngu (fishermen's prayer) ceremony, in which Ba and Cau are the most important objects of worship. This is worth noting because the classification of the festival may differ between sources: some emphasise the fishermen's prayer element, others simply describe it as a traditional festival tied to the community life of islanders.
What is notable about offerings and how to worship Ba - Cau?
According to local tradition, whenever fishermen build a new boat, prepare to set out to sea, or have a good catch, they come to Dinh Cậu to pray to Ba - Cau. The most important offerings are a pair of chickens and a pair of ducks, following the notion "Ong cung ga, ba cung vit" (the male deity is offered chicken, the female deity duck).
In the Chinh Te ritual, offerings include pig, chicken, fruit, incense and lamps. Sources describe the preparation of offerings only in general terms, without specific quantities for each item.
Why do fishermen fear the curse "Ba - Cau nhan chim ghe"?
When encountering trouble at sea or business losses, people often attribute it to Ba - Cau's displeasure. The curse "Ba - Cau nhan chim ghe" (may Ba - Cau sink the boat) is considered extremely heavy and frightening. This reflects the special place of Ba - Cau in the spiritual life of coastal people: the deities are both a source of support and a symbol of awe inspiring power at sea.
How is Dinh Cậu tied to the life of Phú Quốc fishermen?
Dinh Cậu is not only a place of worship but also a symbol of faith in the wellbeing of coastal people, enriching the folk beliefs of the pearl island of Phú Quốc. Dinh Cậu has become one of the symbols of the pearl island, representing the folk beliefs of coastal people and the aspiration for favourable weather, calm seas, and the ability to go out and make a living at sea.
In Phú Quốc folklore a verse is still passed down:
"Cửa Dương has a golden sand beach There is Dinh Cậu, and a lady carrying her child".
Is Dinh Cậu only a place of worship?
It is not only a place of worship; Dinh Cậu is also a cultural and tourist destination. Today it is a spot visitors often stop at when coming to Phú Quốc. Its scenery has long entered poetry and literature: in 1927, poet Đông Hồ, when visiting Cửa Dương, recorded his impressions of the river mouth with its white sand beach, rocky outcrop blocking the river mouth, and the evening scene of water and clouds. Many poets and scholars, on visiting, were moved to write prose and poetry, and many of those works were carved on the walls of Dinh Cậu.
On the occasion of the founding of Dinh Cậu in 1937, author Khưu Bá Linh wrote a poem:
"Do gia hao thien tao Dinh thanh Kim nien Đinh Sửu chieu hien danh Cu ta lap chinh danh bia tac Khuu ta tho de chinh thu sinh Ba gia ban xu dong ca ngoi Linh mieu trung tu tai lap thanh Kinh cau Phú Quốc muon nha thinh Tang ong ca Cu co chi thanh".
Mr Cu - Thiên Đức had a descriptive poem with these lines:
"Oai linh tran vu nuoc non nay Hop ngon ba dao da chang say Chi vung so gan cung nhat nguyet Anh hung ha de then troi may".
Points to note when researching Dinh Cậu and its festival
When looking up Dinh Cậu, readers will encounter some points on which sources do not agree:
- When the shrine was founded: some sources say the late 17th century, others the late 1870s based on engineer J. Renaud's record.
- Original name: some sources say the shrine was once called Long Vương Thần Miếu, with the main hall called Thạch Sơn Điện, while the shrine's door today bears the three characters "Thạch Sơn Điện".
- Position of the two Cau: some sources place Cậu Quý on the right and Cậu Tài on the left, but others simply say the two Cau are worshipped on either side.
- Festival classification: some sources emphasise it is a Cau ngu ceremony, others describe it generally as a traditional festival of islanders.
Noting these disagreements clearly helps readers avoid assuming there is only one way of telling the story of Dinh Cậu and its festival.
When does the 2026 Dinh Cậu Festival take place?
The 2026 Dinh Cậu Festival takes place on the 15th and 16th of the 10th lunar month, corresponding to 23 and 24 November 2026 in the Gregorian calendar. This is an occasion for locals and visitors to join the traditional rituals at Dinh Cậu, Phú Quốc Special Zone, An Giang province.
Locals and visitors can join the procession in the Nghinh Cậu ceremony, watch the traditional rituals, and take part in coastal folk games after the ceremonies. The specific activities of each year may vary depending on the scale of organisation.
