What is the Dinh Cau Phu Quoc Festival and when does it take place?
The Dinh Cau Phu Quoc Festival, also called the Dinh Cau offering ceremony or Nghinh Cau ceremony, is a traditional festival of the people of Phu Quoc island, held on the 15th and 16th of the 10th lunar month each year at Dinh Cau, a shrine on the rocky outcrop at the mouth of the Duong Dong river. It is an occasion for locals to remember the deities worshipped at the shrine and to express wishes for safe voyages and good catches.
Dinh Cau sits on a rocky outcrop jutting into the water, in Phu Quoc Special Zone, An Giang province (formerly Kien Giang province). Its position facing the western sea makes it both an important spiritual site for islanders and a well known spot for watching the sunset.
Why is it called Dinh Cau and not Dinh Ba?
The name Dinh Cau has several explanations and sources do not fully agree. One explanation holds that "Ba" is the supreme Mother goddess regarded with awe, while "Cau" is a more direct protector who "herds fish" and rescues people in storms. The name Dinh Cau also distinguishes it from the neighbouring Dinh Ba Thuy Long Thanh Mau.
According to cultural researcher Nguyen Thanh Loi, fishing was once called the "Ba - Cau trade" by southerners. Fishermen often made offerings to Ba Cau to pray for safety at sea and abundant catches. In the Dai Nam quoc am tu vi by Huynh Tinh Cua, published in 1895 - 1896, "cau Tray, cau Quy" are mentioned as children of Ba Chua Ngoc, showing that Ba and Cau already appeared together in southern Vietnamese vocabulary from the late 19th century.
Which deities are worshipped at Dinh Cau?
Dinh Cau worships Chua Ngoc Nuong Nuong together with two deities, Cau Tai and Cau Quy. Chua Ngoc Nuong Nuong is regarded as a deity "localised" from the central Vietnamese goddess Thien Y A Na, who protects coastal fishermen. She has two sons, Cau Tai and Cau Quy, worshipped alongside her at Dinh Cau under the title "Nhi hien vuong Thai tu".
By hierarchical order, Chua Ngoc Nuong Nuong is both Holy Mother and mother, so she must occupy the most honoured position, at the centre of the main hall. Cau Tai and Cau Quy are worshipped only on either side. The main hall also contains altars to Long Vuong, Ta Ban, Huu Ban, Son than, Than Tai and Tho dia.
Some sources record a different order for the two sides: one document places Cau Quy on the right and Cau Tai on the left, while other descriptions simply say the two Cau are worshipped on either side without specifying positions. Readers should treat this as a detail on which sources do not agree.
Why is Chua Ngoc Nuong Nuong worshipped on Phu Quoc island?
Dinh Cau belongs to the system of Mother goddess and female deity worship of the coastal people of Phu Quoc, brought in by central Vietnamese fishermen during the southward expansion around the late 17th century. Like other coastal communities, Phu Quoc people deeply believe in Ba - Cau, and all good fortune at sea is attributed to their protection.
History of Dinh Cau according to the sources
Regarding the origin of Dinh Cau, sources do not fully agree on the timeframe and early developments.
- According to some documents, around the late 1870s, French naval hydrographic engineer J. Renaud saw at the mouth of the Duong Dong river a large black rock with a shrine on it where sailors and fishermen came to make offerings.
- Other sources hold that Dinh Cau began as a small shrine appearing in the late 17th century, linked to central Vietnamese fishermen settling on Phu Quoc.
- Phu Quoc folk memory also preserves various legends about the shrine's origin, such as fishermen in distress being carried by waves onto the rocky outcrop and building a shrine in gratitude, or the story of Cau having to sit on the back of the Sấu tinh (crocodile spirit) to guard it.
What the sources share is that Dinh Cau began as a small, simple shrine and was later restored several times. In 1937 it was built more solidly. Its present appearance largely dates from the 1997 restoration. In 2012, Dinh Cau was ranked as a provincial level relic, of the scenic landscape category.
How are the legends about Dinh Cau told?
In Phu Quoc folk memory, Dinh Cau is linked to many stories passed down through generations. One popular legend tells that around the 17th century, when the first settlers from central Vietnam came to live on the island, the sea was still a great challenge. In a great storm, a group of fishermen in distress at sea, seemingly without hope, were carried by waves onto a rocky outcrop jutting out at the river mouth and luckily returned safely. Believing in the protection of the deities, the people built a shrine on the rocky outcrop to worship and give thanks.
Another legend tells that before it was named Phu Quoc, this land was called Xich Tho, under the rule of the female Thuy Long Than, commonly called Ba Chua Dao. She had a deeply beloved son, whom the locals called Cau, with an unpredictable temper. Because he disobeyed his mother by freeing the imprisoned Sấu tinh, Cau had to sit forever on the back of the Sấu tinh to guard it, even after it turned to stone. Moved by his exposure to rain and sun, the villagers built a shrine midway up the rocky mountain and called it Dinh Cau.
There is also a telling that Dinh Cau was formerly named Long Vuong Than Mieu, with the main hall called Thach Son Dien. On the shrine's door today are three characters "Thach Son Dien".
What is special about Dinh Cau's architecture?
Dinh Cau has the distinctive look of southern Vietnamese temple and shrine architecture. From the mainland, visitors follow a long concrete road before climbing 29 stone steps leading up to the shrine on the rocky promontory jutting into the Duong Dong river mouth. On either side of the stone steps are railings with traditional decorative motifs.
The shrine has a Dinh (丁) shaped layout, tiled roof, and a ridge decorated with a double dragon. The red tiled roof stands out against the sky, with curved roof sections and decorative details of dragons and phoenixes. The entrance gate bears the words "Dinh Cau", leading into a solemnly arranged worship space. Parallel sentences lacquered in red and gilded, along with carved details on columns, roof and corner beams, give the shrine an ancient look.
In front of the shrine is a screen and a model fishing boat facing the sea. The shrine is built on a rock shaped like a turtle's head, so a parallel sentence inside reads:
"Toa tai thach dau quy danh hien Chan phong binh lang bao luong dan".
Meaning the shrine sits on a rock shaped like a turtle's head that manifests its power, shielding against wind and waves to protect the people. Before the main hall are two more parallel sentences:
"Van co anh linh thong thien dia Thien thu hien hach chieu can khon".
Where is Dinh Cau located relative to Duong Dong?
Dinh Cau is a few hundred metres from Duong Dong town, to the west, on the rocky outcrop where the Duong Dong river mouth opens to the western sea. Its position facing the western sea gives it a wide view towards the horizon. The best time to watch the sunset at Dinh Cau is around 17:00 to 18:00 daily, depending on the season.
What rituals does the Dinh Cau Festival include?
The Dinh Cau Festival includes a ceremonial part and a festive part. In the ceremonial part, the three main rituals are Nghinh Cau, Yet Cau and Chinh Te.
| Ritual | Timing | Main content |
|---|---|---|
| Nghinh Cau | 15th of the 10th lunar month | Palanquin procession of the two Cau to Dinh Cau, passing through the main streets of the Duong Dong area; locals and visitors can join the procession |
| Yet Cau | After Nghinh Cau | Dignitaries, elders and locals offer incense, praying for favourable voyages and the safe return of those at sea |
| Chinh Te | Night of the 15th of the 10th lunar month | The most important ritual; offerings include pig, chicken, fruit, incense and lamps carefully prepared, in a solemn atmosphere |
After the ceremonies come folk games with a coastal flavour such as boat racing, stilt walking, pot smashing and sack racing. In some years, depending on the scale, the festival also features lion dance and folk art performances. According to some records, the Dinh Cau Festival also includes Bong Roi singing and dancing.
Is the Dinh Cau Festival a fishermen's prayer ceremony?
According to some documents, the Dinh Cau Festival has rituals quite similar to the Ky yen ceremony, but is essentially a Cau ngu (fishermen's prayer) ceremony, in which Ba and Cau are the most important objects of worship. This is worth noting because the classification of the festival may differ between sources: some emphasise the fishermen's prayer element, others simply describe it as a traditional festival tied to the community life of islanders.
What is notable about offerings and how to worship Ba - Cau?
According to local tradition, whenever fishermen build a new boat, prepare to set out to sea, or have a good catch, they come to Dinh Cau to pray to Ba - Cau. The most important offerings are a pair of chickens and a pair of ducks, following the notion "Ong cung ga, ba cung vit" (the male deity is offered chicken, the female deity duck).
In the Chinh Te ritual, offerings include pig, chicken, fruit, incense and lamps. Sources describe the preparation of offerings only in general terms, without specific quantities for each item.
Why do fishermen fear the curse "Ba - Cau nhan chim ghe"?
When encountering trouble at sea or business losses, people often attribute it to Ba - Cau's displeasure. The curse "Ba - Cau nhan chim ghe" (may Ba - Cau sink the boat) is considered extremely heavy and frightening. This reflects the special place of Ba - Cau in the spiritual life of coastal people: the deities are both a source of support and a symbol of awe inspiring power at sea.
How is Dinh Cau tied to the life of Phu Quoc fishermen?
Dinh Cau is not only a place of worship but also a symbol of faith in the wellbeing of coastal people, enriching the folk beliefs of the pearl island of Phu Quoc. Dinh Cau has become one of the symbols of the pearl island, representing the folk beliefs of coastal people and the aspiration for favourable weather, calm seas, and the ability to go out and make a living at sea.
In Phu Quoc folklore a verse is still passed down:
"Cua Duong has a golden sand beach There is Dinh Cau, and a lady carrying her child".
Is Dinh Cau only a place of worship?
It is not only a place of worship; Dinh Cau is also a cultural and tourist destination. Today it is a spot visitors often stop at when coming to Phu Quoc. Its scenery has long entered poetry and literature: in 1927, poet Dong Ho, when visiting Cua Duong, recorded his impressions of the river mouth with its white sand beach, rocky outcrop blocking the river mouth, and the evening scene of water and clouds. Many poets and scholars, on visiting, were moved to write prose and poetry, and many of those works were carved on the walls of Dinh Cau.
On the occasion of the founding of Dinh Cau in 1937, author Khuu Ba Linh wrote a poem:
"Do gia hao thien tao Dinh thanh Kim nien Dinh Suu chieu hien danh Cu ta lap chinh danh bia tac Khuu ta tho de chinh thu sinh Ba gia ban xu dong ca ngoi Linh mieu trung tu tai lap thanh Kinh cau Phu Quoc muon nha thinh Tang ong ca Cu co chi thanh".
Mr Cu - Thien Duc had a descriptive poem with these lines:
"Oai linh tran vu nuoc non nay Hop ngon ba dao da chang say Chi vung so gan cung nhat nguyet Anh hung ha de then troi may".
Points to note when researching Dinh Cau and its festival
When looking up Dinh Cau, readers will encounter some points on which sources do not agree:
- When the shrine was founded: some sources say the late 17th century, others the late 1870s based on engineer J. Renaud's record.
- Original name: some sources say the shrine was once called Long Vuong Than Mieu, with the main hall called Thach Son Dien, while the shrine's door today bears the three characters "Thach Son Dien".
- Position of the two Cau: some sources place Cau Quy on the right and Cau Tai on the left, but others simply say the two Cau are worshipped on either side.
- Festival classification: some sources emphasise it is a Cau ngu ceremony, others describe it generally as a traditional festival of islanders.
Noting these disagreements clearly helps readers avoid assuming there is only one way of telling the story of Dinh Cau and its festival.
When does the 2026 Dinh Cau Festival take place?
The 2026 Dinh Cau Festival takes place on the 15th and 16th of the 10th lunar month, corresponding to 23 and 24 November 2026 in the Gregorian calendar. This is an occasion for locals and visitors to join the traditional rituals at Dinh Cau, Phu Quoc Special Zone, An Giang province.
Locals and visitors can join the procession in the Nghinh Cau ceremony, watch the traditional rituals, and take part in coastal folk games after the ceremonies. The specific activities of each year may vary depending on the scale of organisation.
