In the Heart of the Truong Son Range: A Ritual Called Cha Chaih
In the border region adjacent to Laos, along the Truong Son mountain range, the Gie Trieng people preserve a unique ritual called Cha Chaih, meaning "eating charcoal," held in December. This ceremony marks the beginning of a new agricultural cycle and serves as a time for community bonding, reflecting on the past year's labor, and preparing for the next steps in harmony with the mountains and forests. The ritual is maintained by Gie Trieng groups in border communes such as Dak Plo, Dak Mon, and Duc Nong, with Dak Ga village considered the most authentic preserver of the tradition.
Choosing Seven 'Pure' Young Men for the Charcoal Journey
According to village elder Brol Ve (Dak Răng village, Duc Nong commune, Quang Ngai), the Gie Trieng cultivate only one swidden field per year. After the harvest, around late December during the waning moon, the villagers hold the "An Than" ceremony to thank the spirits and pray for a favorable next season. It is also a crucial time to obtain charcoal from the chaih tree, believed to be the best for forging and repairing farming tools.
Not everyone can join the expedition. The village council selects seven healthy young men who are 'pure' in both body and mind: they must not have done wrong, and their families must not have experienced misfortune. The final decision, however, rests with the spirits. The elder throws a split bamboo tube into the air; if one half lands face-up and the other face-down, the spirits have agreed. Otherwise, the selection begins anew. As elder Brol Ve puts it, "Going to get charcoal requires not just strength, but also an upright heart."
On the chosen day, the seven men quietly leave the village at dawn, carrying bamboo rice, forest meat, and familiar gear. From that moment, they must maintain absolute secrecy and avoid all contact with villagers to preserve the ritual's sanctity. After hours of trekking, they reach a place abundant with chaih trees. Before cutting, the elder performs a rite to ask the forest spirits for permission to take from the forest.
The Unique Felling Ritual
The first chaih tree must not be cut with an axe or knife. The men must uproot it using their bare strength, a gesture of respect and direct connection with nature. Once the tree falls, they use tools to cut it into pieces for charcoal. Long shouts echo through the deep forest, blending with the sounds of nature, creating a moment that is both sacred and majestic. The logs are stacked, and at midnight, a fire is lit. After three days, when the wood has turned to charcoal, they carry it back.
Vows with the Forest and the Boundary Between Two Worlds
The charcoal is not brought directly into the village. One man walks ahead, leaves the charcoal at the village edge, and returns to the forest. Only then do the villagers come to retrieve it. The returning man and the villagers must not meet. This ritual rule clearly separates the "sacred space" from everyday life.
Before returning, each man makes a hat from the bark of the long kliă klao tree. This simple material serves as a "mark" of one who has completed a sacred journey. Upon arrival, the group circles a bonfire four times and blows on a horn, performing a transition rite: from forest to village, from nature to daily life.
The Forging Ceremony and Honoring the Fire Bearers
At the communal house (nha rong), gongs and drums resound as the charcoal arrives. The villagers gather to welcome the "fire bearers." The charcoal is placed in the forge, igniting a new flame that starts the production season. The tool-forging ritual is solemn. Blades, machetes, and axes are coated with a mixture of burnt leaves (la dot) and roasted mountain crab, a folk secret passed down for generations. This method is believed to make tools durable and resistant to warping.
A special highlight is that the charcoal gatherers are carried from the forge to the communal house as a sign of honor. Amidst the music, they become community heroes who brought life back to the village. After the ceremony, everyone shares a feast and dances the xoang. Grievances and conflicts are dissolved, reinforcing community bonds.
The next day, the villagers head to the forest to clear new swiddens. The charcoal gatherers choose a communal plot, showcasing their collective spirit. On the way back, each person plants a branch of the le tree at the village edge, wishing for a bountiful harvest.
A Philosophy of Living with the Forest and a Fading Tradition
Elder Brol Ve reflects: "The Gie Trieng live thanks to the forest, so we must protect it. We only burn charcoal once a year. If we destroy the forest recklessly, the spirits will punish us." The message is clear: exploit without destroying, rely on nature while preserving it.
Today, as modern life reaches every village, Cha Chaih is no longer held as regularly as before. Recent revival efforts are not just about preserving heritage but also helping the younger generation understand their roots. Some argue that Cha Chaih is not merely a story about "eating charcoal," but a story about how people keep the fire alive. The fire of the village and the fire of faith burn through generations amidst the vast forest.
