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Traditional Ancestral Worship Trays by Region

Culture and belief A record of custom.
Traditional Ancestral Worship Trays by Region

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TL;DR: The ancestral worship tray is a unique cultural feature, clearly reflecting regional characteristics. The North favors formality and completeness; the Central region is lavish and elaborate; the South is simple yet refined. Despite differences, all express reverence and gratitude to ancestors.

What is an ancestral worship tray?

For Vietnamese people, ancestor worship is a profound spiritual cultural beauty, and the worship tray is the sacred link between the living and the dead. More than just a meal, the worship tray is a colorful cultural story, containing messages and philosophies of life through each dish and arrangement. Depending on geography, history, and the character of each region, worship trays have their own distinct features.

Compare the characteristics of the ancestral offering trays of the three regions of the North, Central, and South according to the criteria in the article.

RegionPresentation styleSignature dishesTraditional cakes
Northern region4 bowls and 4 plates, a large tray with 6 bowls and 6 plates or 8 bowls and 8 plates, arranged in 2 to 3 tiers on a wooden or bronze trayBóng thả, mọc nấm hương, giò hầm măng lưỡi lợn, miến dong nước dùng gà, gà luộc lá chanh, giò lụa, chả quế, nem rán, thịt đông, giò thủ, nộm su hàoBánh chưng
Central regionNot restricted to a fixed number of bowls and plates, many dishesTôm thịt rim, thịt kho tàu, cá thu kho rim, canh hầm hạt sen, giò heo hầm măng, gà bóp rau răm, bò bóp khế, măng trộn, mít trộn, nem, chả, tréBánh chưng and bánh tét
Southern regionSimpler but refinedThịt heo kho nước dừa với trứng ăn kèm dưa giá, canh khổ qua nhồi thịt, gỏi ngó sen, bánh phồng tôm, chả giò, lạp xưởng, củ kiệu tôm khô, cù laoBánh tét

What is on a Northern Vietnamese worship tray?

The Northern tray, typically from Hanoi, is considered the standard of formality. Dishes are arranged in a strict structure of 4 bowls and 4 plates; larger feasts can have 6 or 8 of each, sometimes stacked in 2 or 3 tiers on wooden or bronze trays, showing respect for ancestors.

The four bowls are the soul of the tray, featuring elaborate dishes like jellyfish soup, mushroom meatball soup, or braised pork hock with bamboo shoots. Wealthier families might add delicacies like bird's nest or sea cucumber. The four plates usually consist of boiled chicken, pork, pork roll, and cinnamon sausage, along with spring rolls, pork jelly, or pickles. Chung cake is essential, eaten with pickled onions.

What makes the Central Vietnam worship tray unique?

The Central tray, especially from Hue, is known for its grandeur and liberality. Not bound by the number of dishes, it often features many items, showcasing the host's prosperity. The tray typically includes dishes prepared in four main ways: kho (braised), nau (simmered), thau (mixed with sour dressing), and tron (mixed salad), plus fried, steamed, or grilled dishes. Ingredients range from poultry and livestock to seafood.

A unique feature is the presence of both chung cake (from the North) and tet cake (influenced by Cham culture), symbolizing yin and yang. Dishes like braised shrimp and pork, simmered chicken with lotus seeds, or beef and starfruit salad are common. The tray is never without appetizers like nem, cha, or tre.

What is on a Southern Vietnamese worship tray?

Unlike the elaborate trays of the other regions, the Southern tray embodies a liberal spirit. It is simpler but still refined and meaningful. Essential dishes include pork braised in coconut water with eggs (served with pickled bean sprouts) and bitter melon soup stuffed with meat, symbolizing the wish for the hardships of the old year to pass.

Cold dishes like lotus stem salad, shrimp crackers, spring rolls, and dried sausage are also popular. The dish 'cu lao' is a highlight, representing the cultural fusion of Vietnamese, Chinese, and Khmer cuisines. Tet cake is a specialty with various colors and fillings. The skill of Southern cooks is shown in balancing yin and yang by adding chili to the braised pork, creating an appetizing amber color.

How are worship trays similar across Vietnam?

Despite regional differences, there are common points. Traditionally, beef was not used in worship trays until the early 20th century under Western influence. Rice and sticky rice are indispensable, and every tray includes a small bowl of pure fish sauce for dipping, respecting traditional flavors.

Today, worship trays have evolved with new dishes from other cuisines. However, the core value of remembrance and gratitude towards ancestors remains preserved, making the worship tray a vital cultural thread connecting generations.

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Frequently asked questions

Why does the Northern worship tray often have a structure of 4 bowls and 4 plates?

The 4-bowl, 4-plate structure demonstrates the formality and completeness of the Northern people. The number 4 symbolizes stability and fullness. Wealthier families may increase the number to 6 or 8 bowls and plates to show greater prosperity.

What is the significance of the 'cu lao' dish in the Southern worship tray?

The 'cu lao' dish symbolizes the cultural fusion of Vietnamese, Chinese, and Khmer peoples. It originated from a Chinese hotpot-style dish but was adapted by the Vietnamese with more vegetables, while the Khmer contributed fish cake and dried shrimp. Southerners consider it a symbol of parental merit.

Why does the Central region worship tray have both chung cake and tet cake?

Due to its geographical position as a cultural crossroads, the Central region adopted chung cake from the North and tet cake from the Cham people. Both cakes symbolize heaven and earth, yin and yang. However, in the Hue imperial court, only chung cake was offered as tet cake was considered less refined.

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References

  1. Sắc màu văn hóa đằng sau các mâm cơm cúng ông bà tổ tiên - Tuổi Trẻ Online
  2. Toan Ánh, Nếp cũ - Con người Việt Nam
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