TL;DR: In the early 20th century, Hanoians celebrated Tết to the rhythm of Hàng Lược flower market, offering trays of bánh chưng, pickled onions, firecrackers and the custom of xông đất (the first visitor of the lunar new year). During the subsidy period, Tết was tied to queuing, ration coupons, state trading and new clothes for children. Today, Hàng Lược flower market still opens and Hanoians still come there to shop for Tết and stroll, even though peach and kumquat trees can be bought in many places.
What Was Different About How Hanoians Celebrated Tet in the Early 20th Century?
In the early 20th century, Tet in Hanoi was a series of activities stretching from the twelfth lunar month to the end of the first, closely tied to the flower market, offering trays and family rituals. Hoang Dao Thuy, a man deeply familiar with Hanoi, recalled that children were excited to wear new clothes, eat banh chung, fatty pork, pickled onions and set off firecrackers, while adults worried about debts and market affairs[1]. This was a Tet both warm and tense, quite unlike the convenient Tet rhythm of today.
The Hang Luoc Flower Market and Tet Shopping Culture
The Hang Luoc flower market opened on the 23rd of the twelfth lunar month, the day of Ong Cong Ong Tao (the Kitchen Gods), and lasted until nearly midnight on New Year's Eve[2][4]. According to Nhan Dan newspaper, the market dates from the late 19th century, when the French filled in a stretch of the To Lich River to build Dong Xuan market, continuing the flower market beside Cau Dong market from the 15th century[2]. According to Nhan Dan newspaper, under the Nguyen dynasty the market sold flowers grown in the villages of Ngoc Ha and Huu Tiep; in the early 20th century Western flowers and narcissus bulbs were added for refined hobbyists; by the last years of the 20th century Tet flowers at Hang Luoc were mainly peach blossoms and hai duong[2]. Phap Luat Viet Nam newspaper, by contrast, writes that the market formed in the Le dynasty[4].
The market was not only for buying and selling. Phap Luat Viet Nam newspaper noted that the Hang Luoc flower market is held once a year, except for Tet Dinh Hoi in 1947 when Hanoi was a battlefield, and to this day it remains a spiritual "dish" of Tet[4]. People go to the flower market to look, stroll and take photos, not necessarily to buy[4].
Tet Offering Trays and Family Rituals
Phan Ke Binh in "Viet Nam phong tuc" (1915) recorded customs common to the Vietnamese: the offering at midnight on the 30th (giao thua), and the morning offering to the ancestors on the first day with banh chung, braised fish, gio (Vietnamese sausage), cha, pickled onions and beef[6]. He also recorded the Tet taboo against sweeping rubbish, piling it in a corner until the third day's dong tho (ground-breaking) ritual before taking it out, and the custom of asking a kind, easy-going person to xong dat (be the first visitor) so that the whole year would bring good trade[6].
What Was Special About Tet in Hanoi During the Subsidy Era?
During the subsidy era, Tet in Hanoi was tied to ration coupons, state shops and the worry of queuing. An article in Phap Luat Viet Nam newspaper recounted the words of a retired engineer whose parents "feared" Tet because of the crowds queuing to exchange ration coupons for goods, while children were excited to get new clothes[5]. Clothes then were only bought at state shops, boys wore white shirts and blue trousers, girls wore floral fabric, and any child with new clothes ran around the neighbourhood showing them off[5].
Tet Shopping and the Preparatory Atmosphere
Huu Loc wrote in Tien Phong newspaper that Tet of old meant queuing at state shops in the early morning mist, the sound of laughter in the cold fog while choosing a flower branch, and the whole family sitting to wash dong leaves with frozen hands[3]. The author's mother often shopped very early, one item a day: a few ounces of pig's tongue mushrooms, a bundle of vermicelli, a few kilos of glutinous rice, green beans, a kilo of pickled onions, wood ear mushrooms, shiitake mushrooms, a box of candied fruit, a bottle of wine, and she would say "you have to shop early, or if the goods run out the family will lose Tet"[3].
Rituals and the Evening Meal on the 30th
In Huu Loc's recollection, his family still kept the rituals of ancestor worship. The family altar was cleaned and adjusted, offerings such as incense, votive paper, paper flowers and a five-fruit tray were placed solemnly, and there was always a small peach branch or vase of flowers for the altar[3]. The evening meal on the 30th was a time for the whole family to gather, children to report what they had done during the year, and grandparents to remind them of family traditions[3].
How Do Hanoians Celebrate Tet Today?
The Hang Luoc flower market still opens every year. Phap Luat Viet Nam newspaper noted that although peach and kumquat trees can be bought anywhere, capital residents still come to the Hang Luoc flower market to shop for Tet, stroll with their families and immerse themselves in the traditional atmosphere[4].
Key Milestones in the Change of Tet in Hanoi
| Period | Main Features | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Early 20th century | Hang Luoc flower market, banh chung offering trays, firecrackers, xong dat, taboo against sweeping rubbish | According to Nhan Dan newspaper, Hoang Dao Thuy and Phan Ke Binh[2][1][6] |
| Subsidy era | Ration coupons, state shops, queuing, new clothes for children | According to Phap Luat Viet Nam and Tien Phong newspapers[3][5] |
| Today | Hang Luoc flower market still opens; capital residents still come to shop for Tet and stroll | According to Phap Luat Viet Nam newspaper[4] |
Frequently Asked Questions
Did Old Hanoians Set Off Firecrackers at Tet?
Yes. Hoang Dao Thuy recorded that children in the early 20th century were excited to set off firecrackers at Tet[1]. Phan Ke Binh also recorded the custom of setting off firecrackers throughout the Tet days[6]. This custom was banned in 1995.
When Did the Hang Luoc Flower Market Begin?
According to Nhan Dan newspaper, the Hang Luoc flower market dates from the late 19th century, continuing the flower market beside Cau Dong market from the 15th century[2]. Phap Luat Viet Nam newspaper says the market formed in the Le dynasty[4].
How Does Tet During the Subsidy Era Differ from Today's Tet?
Tet during the subsidy era was tied to ration coupons, state shops and queuing for shopping[5]. Today the Hang Luoc flower market still opens and capital residents still come to shop for Tet[4].
