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Five-Color Sticky Rice of the Tay People: Natural Colors in the Lồng Tồng Festival

Culture and belief A record of custom.
Five-Color Sticky Rice of the Tay People: Natural Colors in the Lồng Tồng Festival

Image: Wikimedia Commons (Public Domain / CC0)

TL;DR: Five-color sticky rice is an indispensable dish in the Lồng Tồng festival of the Tày people, with five colors green, red, purple, yellow, and white made entirely from natural leaves, roots, and fruits. Each color carries its own layer of meaning, and together they symbolize âm dương ngũ hành and the wish for a new year with favorable rain and wind and a bountiful harvest. This dish also appears on ceremonial trays, Tết, and wedding offerings of the Thái, Nùng, Dao, and many other ethnic groups in the northern mountains, and each group has its own way of explaining and shaping it.

What is the Lồng Tồng festival and where does five-colour sticky rice fit in?

Lồng Tồng (also called the festival of going down to the fields) is the most important festival of the year for the Tày people in the Northeast region of Vietnam, usually held in early spring to cầu mùa (prayer for a good harvest), asking for a new year of favourable rain and wind and a bountiful crop. In the sacred space of the festival, the offering tray presented to the deities and ancestors is never complete without five-colour sticky rice. This is not only a familiar dish but also a cultural symbol, crystallising the community's folk knowledge of food and belief. Five-colour sticky rice also appears on the offering trays of festivals, Tết and weddings among the Thái, Nùng, Dao and many other mountain peoples of the North; each people has its own way of explaining and shaping it.

A summary table of the five colours of Tày five-colour sticky rice by colouring ingredient and symbolic meaning.

Colour of the sticky riceColouring ingredientElement in the five elementsSymbolic meaning
WhiteThe natural colour of glutinous riceMetalPurity, the original state, sincere love for parents and ancestors
GreenPandan leaves or fresh ginger leavesWoodThe colour of mountains and forests, plants and fields, the longing for peace and for life to flourish
RedRipe gấc fruitFireThe longing to live, ardour, the spirit of solidarity and the dream of a bright future
YellowMature turmeric rootEarthWarmth and plenty, prosperity, a bountiful harvest
PurplePurple cẩm leavesWaterFidelity, constancy, enduring love; also the colour of fertile land

What are the colouring ingredients of five-colour sticky rice?

Unlike industrial food colourings, Tày five-colour sticky rice is coloured entirely with plants, roots and fruits available in nature. This method both ensures safety and creates a distinctive aroma that no colouring can replace.

Five colours, five kinds of ingredient

  • White: The natural colour of glutinous rice, with no leaf added. The Tày usually choose upland glutinous rice grown on hills, with large, round, plump and even grains.
  • Green: Taken from pandan leaves or fresh ginger leaves. The leaves are crushed and squeezed for their juice, or boiled to extract the colour. In some places people also use other forest leaves to make green.
  • Red: Usually ripe gấc fruit, taking the red flesh surrounding the seeds to create a natural orange-red. In some places red cẩm leaves are used instead of gấc.
  • Yellow: From mature turmeric root, pounded or ground fine and then filtered for a deep yellow juice.
  • Purple: Taken from purple cẩm leaves (a herb commonly planted in home gardens). Red cẩm leaves can also give a purple-red or dark red depending on the concentration.

How is the colour extracted?

The colouring ingredients need to be handled correctly so that the colour comes out beautiful and lasting:

  • Leaves (pandan, cẩm, ginger) are washed clean, crushed or ground fine, then boiled for about 20 to 30 minutes so the colour is released evenly.
  • The coloured water is filtered through cloth to remove sediment and left to cool before the rice is soaked in it.
  • Mature turmeric root is pounded fine, mixed with water, and filtered for a bright yellow juice.
  • Gấc fruit is cut in half, the red flesh around the seeds is scraped out with a spoon and mixed directly with the glutinous rice or blended with a little warm water.

What is special about the steaming technique?

Preparing the rice

The glutinous rice, once selected, is washed clean and divided into 5 separate portions. Each portion is soaked in a different coloured water. The soaking usually lasts overnight (about 6 to 8 hours) so the colour penetrates deep into each grain, though it can also be soaked for a minimum of 2 to 3 hours if time is short. After soaking, the rice is taken out and left to drain completely before steaming.

Steaming the rice in a traditional wooden steamer

The Tày, like many other Northwest peoples, use a wooden steamer (usually made of soft wood, with a perforated base to let steam rise) set over a pot of boiling water. The rice is steamed by the steam, so the grains cook evenly, soft and chewy but neither mushy nor sticky to the hand.

There are three common ways to steam five-colour sticky rice. The first is to layer the rice in the steamer: the cook usually spreads the dark-coloured rice (red, yellow, purple) at the bottom, with the layers separated by banana leaves or small-holed bamboo racks so that the heat still passes through but the colours do not mix into one another, and the top layer is always white glutinous rice, creating a harmonious contrast of colour when the lid is lifted. The second is to steam each colour separately, one colour per batch or per steamer. The third is to steam everything together in one steamer but divided into five compartments like five flower petals using woven bamboo strips or a wooden frame, so the colours do not bleed into each other.

How are the heat and timing controlled when steaming the rice?

  • The fire must be steady, kept at a moderate level, not so hot that water spills into the steamer, nor so low that the rice cooks unevenly.
  • Steaming takes on average about 40 minutes for a steamer holding about 6 kg of rice.
  • The sign that the rice is cooked is steam rising thickly, giving off the characteristic aroma of glutinous rice mingled with the smell of leaves.

When cooked, the grains are glossy and beautiful, not wet, and separate from one another. When cool, the grains tighten but remain soft and chewy, fragrant and tasty, and can be kept for a few days without drying out or hardening.

What is the symbolic meaning of five-colour sticky rice?

What does each colour of the rice mean?

In the belief of the Tày and many peoples of the northern mountains, five-colour sticky rice represents yin and yang and the five elements:

  • White (the Metal element): Purity, the original state, sincere love for parents and ancestors.
  • Green (the Wood element): The colour of mountains and forests, plants and fields, the longing for peace and for life to flourish.
  • Purple (the Water element): Fidelity, constancy, enduring love; also the colour of fertile land.
  • Red (the Fire element): The longing to live, ardour, the spirit of solidarity and the dream of a bright future.
  • Yellow (the Earth element): Warmth and plenty, prosperity, a bountiful harvest.

Why does five-colour sticky rice represent solidarity?

Five-colour sticky rice is not only a dish but also a message about the spirit of community. Five different colours are placed side by side in harmony on the same offering tray, representing the bond between the members of a village, and between brother peoples living close to one another in the border mountains and forests.

Colour on different occasions

In the culture of many highland peoples, the full five-colour sticky rice usually appears only on festive occasions and joyful days such as Tết, weddings and the new rice celebration. At funerals or in times of sorrow, people usually reduce the colours, sometimes avoiding purple altogether, to show respect and avoid display.

What does five-colour sticky rice mean on the Lồng Tồng offering tray?

On the day of the Lồng Tồng festival, the tray of five-colour sticky rice is usually placed at the centre, surrounded by other offerings such as pork, boiled chicken and bánh chưng. The way the rice is presented is also an art:

  • Arranged in the shape of 5 flower petals, each petal a colour, creating a whole as brilliant as a flower in bloom.
  • Arranged in the shape of a many-tiered mountain, representing the rich terraced fields.
  • Arranged in a clustered block, the colours interwoven like families living together in a village.

When eaten, five-colour sticky rice is usually served with grilled dishes such as grilled chicken or grilled fish marinated with characteristic spices, or simply with sesame salt. The chewy fragrance of the glutinous rice blends with the rich flavour of the grilled meat to create an unforgettable culinary experience.

Is five-colour sticky rice only a Tày dish?

No. Five-colour sticky rice does not belong to the Tày alone. The Thái, Nùng, Dao and many other mountain peoples of the North also make five-colour sticky rice for Tết, weddings and other occasions, and each place has its own way of shaping it and explaining the colours. Among the Tày, five-colour sticky rice is closely tied to the Lồng Tồng festival and the concept of yin and yang and the five elements; among other peoples, the dish also appears on important offering trays but with different styles of presentation and meaning.

The differences between peoples also show in the colouring ingredients. For the same green, the Tày may use pandan leaves or ginger leaves, while some other places use a different forest leaf. For the same red, some places use gấc fruit, others red cẩm leaves. This is a point showing that five-colour sticky rice is a dish of exchange, shared by many peoples but never entirely the same.

Cultural value and survival

Five-colour sticky rice is not only a dish but also an intangible cultural heritage, preserving indigenous knowledge of using plants as natural dyes. In the modern context, when industrial products are increasingly widespread, maintaining and teaching the traditional way of making five-colour sticky rice to younger generations is a way for the Tày to keep their identity and to introduce to visitors near and far a distinctive cultural beauty of the Northeast mountains and forests.

Besides this, the colouring ingredients such as cẩm leaves, turmeric root and gấc fruit are all folk remedies beneficial to health, helping the dish be not only pleasing to the eye but also nourishing. This is evidence of the harmony between food and traditional medicine in the life of the community.

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Frequently asked questions

What natural ingredients are used to color the Tay people's five-color sticky rice?

Five-color sticky rice is colored entirely by natural sources: white is the natural color of glutinous rice, green comes from pandan or ginger leaves, red from gac fruit, yellow from mature turmeric, and purple from cam leaves. The ingredients are pounded, boiled, and filtered to obtain colored water for soaking the rice.

What is the significance of five-color sticky rice in the Lồng Tồng festival?

Five-color sticky rice symbolizes yin-yang and the five elements, as well as the Tay people's aspirations for a new year of favorable weather and abundant harvests. Each color has its own meaning: white for purity, green for forests, purple for fidelity, red for vitality, and yellow for prosperity. The tray also reflects the spirit of communal solidarity.

What is special about the traditional steaming method of the Tay people?

The Tay steam the rice in a wooden steamer using steam heat. Colored rice layers are arranged with darker colors at the bottom, separated by banana leaves or bamboo grids to prevent color mixing, and the top layer is white rice. The fire must be steady, and steaming takes about 40 minutes for a 6 kg batch, yielding chewy, fragrant sticky rice.

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References

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  2. Báo Điện tử Chính phủ - Xôi ngũ sắc - Đặc sản ẩm thực của núi rừng Tây Bắc
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