The Culture of Ruou Can: The Sacred Soul of the Central Highlands
Amid the majestic Central Highlands of Vietnam, ruou can (traditional wine drunk through bamboo straws from a jar) is far more than a mere beverage. For the E De and other indigenous ethnic groups, it is a living cultural heritage, a thread connecting people with deities, with their community, and with their own identity.
The Role of Ruou Can in Spiritual and Community Life
According to village elder Ama Jeny from Buon Ako Dhong (Buon Ma Thuot City, Dak Lak), ruou can is an indispensable offering in almost all E De rituals: new rice ceremony, water wharf ceremony, health ceremony, rain-praying ceremony... In the worldview of the Central Highlands people, ruou can is a medium to communicate with the supernatural. When offering wine, people send their wishes, gratitude, and reverence to the deities. In return, the Yàng (deities) are believed to "descend" to drink and celebrate with the village, witnessing and blessing the community.
Beyond the spiritual dimension, ruou can also serves as a means of community bonding. During festivals, jars of wine are occasions for people to sit together, share joys and sorrows, discuss village affairs, and forge romantic connections. Thus, ruou can symbolizes community solidarity, love, and sharing among people.
Preparation Rituals: From Bamboo Poles to the Wine Jar
The preparation for an E De ruou can drinking session is elaborate and rich in symbolic meaning.
The E De erect bamboo poles about 2-3 meters high, decorated with colorful tassels, flowers, or small wooden carvings of animals. The wine jars are tied firmly to the poles to prevent tipping. According to belief, these poles are the "path for the Yàng to descend and join the celebration," so they are decorated as beautifully and vibrantly as possible.
Forest leaves (non-toxic, without sap) are picked and pressed tightly into the jar, secured with small bamboo or reed sticks below the jar's neck. This leaf lining serves two purposes: keeping the fermented mash from overflowing when water is added, and creating a space from the neck to the mouth called a "cu" (measure). Each cu is about 0.25 liters; after finishing one cu, more water must be added. The water used must be pure spring water collected at dawn and poured 5-7 hours before drinking to allow proper infusion.
The straw (can) is made from a small bamboo or reed stem, 1.2-1.5 meters long, with the nodes hollowed out. The tip is carved into a slit with 3-4 small holes to let the wine seep in without drawing up the mash or husks. Each jar typically uses one straw, except at weddings where two are used. Inserting the straw at the right height for the drinker, without clogging, demonstrates the skill of the person who places it.
Etiquette and Order in the Ruou Can Drinking Ritual
A distinctive feature reflecting the matriarchal culture of the E De is that women drink first. This is observed in all ruou can sessions, from family ceremonies to grand village festivals.
According to Y Mang, Deputy Head of the Culture and Information Office of Cu M'gar District, an important ritual is appointing a facilitator. This person is not a shaman or host but someone knowledgeable and courteous, responsible for determining the drinking order: from elders to youth, women before men. After the female host, the most important guest present is invited. The facilitator takes a sip from the straw and spits it out before offering it.
Throughout the session, the straw is passed from hand to hand without being removed. If someone does not wish to drink, they cover the straw tip with their thumb. This rule expresses respect and maintains the continuity of the sacred connection; no one is allowed to break that flow.
Ruou Can in the Modern Context
Today, despite countless modern beverages, ruou can still holds an irreplaceable position in deity worship ceremonies, village festivals, and when welcoming distinguished guests of the E De and other Central Highlands ethnic groups. Its endurance demonstrates the profound cultural value of ruou can, transcending ordinary material worth.
Ruou can embodies community cohesion, love, and sharing. It is a beautiful cultural trait that should be preserved and promoted in contemporary life, so that each jar of ruou can is not just a drink but a historical witness and a symbol of the highlands' identity.
Conclusion
The culture of ruou can among the Central Highlands people is a vivid picture reflecting their worldview, philosophy, and way of life. From its role as an offering to deities, the meticulous preparation rituals, to the profoundly humane etiquette, all create a unique cultural heritage. Understanding and cherishing the value of ruou can is a way to preserve and spread the cultural identity of Vietnam in the era of integration.
